Tent Poles
Almost all family tents are free-standing with the advantage that you can erect it and then move it into position before taking it down for stability. The poles and the pole structure make this feature possible.
The pole configuration and materials depend on the shape of the tent. Fewer poles give you speed in getting the tent up and down but may compromise on stability.
Most pole arrangements involve short lengths connected with an elastic cord. These poles then slide into sleeves in the tent fabric or create a frame with durable plastic clips. The poles' top typically has a spike that fits into a metal grommet – but designs vary, and some poles are curved instead. Clips are excellent for airflow in the tent, but sleeves provide a more stable frame. Color-coded poles and clips help with a rapid and smooth tent set-up.
Regardless of the precise design, poles form the rigid frame that gives the tent its structure and stability.
Many materials make functional tent poles:
· Fiberglass – light and affordable. The main disadvantages are that they can snap and splinter under pressure.
· Carbon fiber – light and strong, relatively new on the market, and typically only in the more expensive premium tents.
· Steel – traditional material, strong but heavy and may rust.
· Aluminum – all the advantages of steel but corrosion-free and light.
Most of the better, middle price range camping tents use aluminum poles for their combination of strength and lightness.
Tent Materials and Construction
The fabric of a double-walled tent includes the tent's main body (with interior rooms and potentially a sewn-in floor) and a separate rainfly that provides the wind and waterproofing on the top. A single-walled tent has the tent's fabric as one layer that incorporates the rainfly and inner lining as one fabric.
Most tent fabric is synthetic nylon, but you can get luxury cotton canvas tents. The cotton canvas tents are heavier and more substantial, and more expensive. The disadvantage of a cotton canvas tent is that you need to take extra care in storage to avoid issues with mold.
Deniers – a measure of grams per 9,000 meters of thread describes the quality of the nylon fabric. The higher numbers are thicker and more durable but cost proportionally more.
Rainfly
The rainfly can be a separate cover that either fits only the top of the tent or extends all the way to the ground. The roof only rainfly gives you maximum views, light, and air. The full coverage provides better weather protection. Some comping tents give you the pest of both worlds by allowing you to roll up the sides to air the tent and offer better light or allow you to watch the stars come out.
The hydrostatic head measurement tells you how waterproof the fabric is and 1500mm is the minimum rating for a waterproof rainfly. The higher the number, the more waterproof the material; 2,000 mm deals with average showers and 4,000mm with almost everything the weather can throw at it.
A system that lets you pitch the rainfly first gives you the advantage of erecting the tent's inner part under shelter. Other approaches involve putting up the frame and the inner tent before pitching the rainfly over the top.
Construction
Taped seams improve the waterproofing of your camping tent. If you buy a camping tent without this feature, it is sensible to use a seam sealer (application of a rubber solution or tape). Treating the seams before first use improves your tent's capabilities to withstand the weather. The seams are a potential point of weakness for water to penetrate and extra protection in these areas is beneficial.
Typically the tent floor is a higher denier material to withstand the pressure of you walking and moving across it. A "bath-tub" floor is where the higher density ground material goes partway up the sides of the tent, providing a protective "wall" around the base. This construction method helps keep debris and water out of the tent interior and improves waterproofing and cleanliness.
A separate groundsheet may not be as waterproof because of the gap between the ground and the tent walls, but it does improve ventilation and cut down on condensation.
Footprint Mat
A footprint mat is an optional accessory that helps preserve the durability of your tent floor. Stones, pebbles, and sharp rocks will eventually damage the bottom of your tent. A footprint mat sits between the tent floor and the ground, adding an extra layer of insulation and protection. It is the same size as the tent floor (pr footprint) and is cheaper to replace than your tent.
A separate groundsheet that extends beyond your tent's footprint is not ideal because it can collect and direct water under your tent. A footprint mat is an accessory you can make yourself with a trip to a hardware store for some builder's heavy-duty plastic or other ground covering material.
Tent Carpet
Another useful accessory is a mat that covers the tent floor on the interior. This mat provides additional warmth through insulation and offers extra cushioning for comfort. It is not essential, but if you are a frequent camper, small accessories like these turn your camping tent into a holiday home.
Guy-Out Loops
Higher quality tents have loops on the outside of the tent to attach guy lines for increased stability in windy conditions – helpful for keeping the rainfly taut and allowing water to bead and run away.
Not every tent has guy lines – some use only stakes for stability. Glow in the dark guy lines are visible at night to avoid trip hazards. You can also get fluorescent stakes as an additional extra.
Doors, Windows, Vestibules, and Garages
One door or two? The door is the way you get in and out of the tent. If you only have one door, then the tent occupants may need to climb over each other for a midnight comfort break. The advantage of one entry is the security of knowing that your children must wake you up before they wander outside. Two doors may be more convenient in larger tents and offer you options for airing out the tent during the day.